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A F Vandevorst | spring-2010-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,010 | ready-to-wear | spring | With transparency and visible lingerie shaping up as a couple of Spring's biggest trends, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx are, for better or worse, in their element. They didn't invent innerwear as outerwear—that somewhat dubious honor probably goes to Madonna and Jean Paul Gaultier—but it is a significant aspect of the... | Nicole Phelps | September 30, 2009 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2011-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,011 | ready-to-wear | fall | Designer inspirations. At times they seem pulled out of thin air at the eleventh hour, at others so arcane as to be irrelevant, and sometimes just plain irrelevant. So it was with hesitation that one looked upon An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx's creative source material for Fall, set up backstage like a mascot in a smal... | Meenal Mistry | March 2, 2011 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2011-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,011 | ready-to-wear | spring | Being inspired by armor is familiar ground for Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst, their signature look being one that falls into the category of the urban warrior. But for Spring, the duo took that notion and evolved it into an exploration of metal in all its various forms. Perhaps unintentionally, it made for an uncharac... | Meenal Mistry | September 29, 2010 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | fall | German artist Joseph Beuys has been a mascot-muse for An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx since they began. So it's surprising that until now the Belgian duo never came around to this Fall's conceit: conjuring Beuys' female companion. The thought led them to choreographer Pina Bausch, a creative peer, and a mix of her mascu... | Meenal Mistry | February 29, 2012 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | spring | After visiting Kenya last year, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx were quite taken with the warriors of the Turkana and Samburu tribes—two groups of young men who are apparently hyperconscious of their bodies, which they delight in decorating and parading about. (Sound like anyone you know?) "It's really their pride we lo... | Meenal Mistry | September 28, 2011 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | fall | Designers An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx partnered with filmmaker Dirk Braeckman to create the evocative six-minute video that played at the beginning of their show. In it, the choreographer Lisbeth Gruwez channeled some sort of wild creature, or at least a possessed woman, writhing on the cement floor of a warehouse a... | Nicole Phelps | February 28, 2013 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | spring | Fall for Spring is one of this season's underlying stories. Blame it on global warming, or our increasingly flat planet, or the bigger bang that cold-weather clothes deliver at stores. Whatever the reason, we've seen more somber colors and layers on the runways than we usually do during this part of the fashion cycle.F... | Nicole Phelps | September 27, 2012 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | fall | Have An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx run out of ideas? The model who walked out wearing A.F. Vandevorst's logo glued to her bare chest certainly seemed to suggest that they have. That look was the definite low point in their show tonight. It's not easy for a small brand like theirs to maintain momentum, but grasping at ... | Nicole Phelps | February 27, 2014 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | spring | "1998 | 2013," A.F. Vandevorst's program notes announced. Perched atop each seat was a tiny box filled with a sugarcoated Belgian chocolate; "Thank you," the words on it read. To celebrate their fifteenth anniversary, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx took a trip through their archives. "We found the pieces closest to our... | Nicole Phelps | September 26, 2013 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | fall | Where to start? Probably in Peru, where An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx traveled recently and became inspired as much by condors, folklore, traditional dress, and ponchos as they were by their time hanging out with Mario Testino in his museum there. Back at home, they began Vandevorst-izing this new ammunition. "In our ... | Luke Leitch | March 5, 2015 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | spring | Today's A.F. Vandevorst show was an interesting mix of poetry and prose. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had come up with a story, about a female pilot flying around the world who parachutes into terra incognita and begins exploring. Which is to say, Vandevorst and Arickx were riffing on parachutes and flight suits, a t... | Maya Singer | September 26, 2014 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | fall | On theA.F. Vandevorstrunway today (the brand has moved from Paris to London), a crew of videographers stalked the models, transmitting feeds to flat-screen TVs erected at the far end of the catwalk. Just prior, An Vandevorst, who runs the label with husband Filip Arickx, said, “Today’s collection is for a woman who wan... | Nick Remsen | February 22, 2016 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | spring | You heard this collection coming long before you saw it: a gutsy roar that grew to a crescendo as the models rode around the block from backstage into the courtyard of the Faculté de Médecine Paris Descartes. They were riding pillion on a 25-strong lineup of muscle bikes—Harleys and Triumphs. This was because, asAn Van... | Luke Leitch | October 1, 2015 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2017-couture | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-couture/a-f-vandevorst | 2,017 | couture | fall | Of all the special materials displayed in A.F. Vandevorst’s show as a guest member on this season’s haute couture schedule, the recurrence of reworked garbage bags seemed particularly noteworthy. But lest anyone detect a disrespectful provocation, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx confirmed that their intention was precis... | Amy Verner | July 2, 2017 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | spring | ForA.F. Vandevorst’s Spring collection, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx worked with artist Dirk Braeckman on a short film to bring their designs to life—departing from their usual runway show format. The clip, which features a trio of recalcitrant misfits ranging around the Belgian music festival Pukkelpop, opens with a... | Nick Remsen | September 28, 2016 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2018-couture | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/a-f-vandevorst | 2,018 | couture | spring | To mark their 20th anniversary as a brand, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx presented one look from each of their past 40 collections together, repositioning the actual archive pieces in the present by styling it afresh. The title, Always+Forever, expressed heart; the tone, signaled by heraldic flags being sliced through... | Amy Verner | January 25, 2018 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | fall-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | fall | From their home base of Antwerp, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx may be safely removed from fashion’s madding crowd, but that doesn’t keep them out of the loop. Far from it, in fact. This season, the married couple linked up with New York–based photographerSteven Sebring, whose multimedia studio contains a 360-degree ca... | Monica Kim | March 2, 2019 | An Vandevorst | [
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A F Vandevorst | spring-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | spring | An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx have been married and at the helm of their sustained, independent, and successful fashion brand for 20 years. Both of these partnerships are remarkable achievements and deserving of celebration. So last year the couple marked the 20th anniversary of their Antwerp-based company A.F. Vandev... | Sally Singer | September 22, 2018 | An Vandevorst | [
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A P C | fall-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | fall | A.P.C.'s Louis Wong, a spokesperson for the design team, often stays close to home when seeking inspiration. "We actually look at a lot of people in the Sixth," Wong said at today's presentation in the company's Rue des Saints-Pères showroom. "They're traditional bourgeois but a bit arty. Their clothes are always a bit... | Meenal Mistry | March 4, 2012 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2012-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,012 | menswear | fall | A.P.C.'s Louis Wong, a spokesperson for the design team, often stays close to home when seeking inspiration. "We actually look at a lot of people in the Sixth," Wong said at today's presentation in the company's Rue des Saints-Pères showroom. "They're traditional bourgeois but a bit arty. Their clothes are always a bit... | Meenal Mistry | March 4, 2012 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | fall | Maybe it was because we caught him in the third hour of a three-hour presentation, but A.P.C.'s always-opinionated Jean Touitou was in boisterous form today. Few things escaped his judgment. Not the current state of fashion shows: "Just one-off pieces and party dresses, no ready-to-wear," he said. Not shoes: "Women's f... | Nicole Phelps | February 27, 2013 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2013-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,013 | menswear | fall | The Collected Wit and Wisdom of Jean Touitou deserves a hardcover printing, if not its own reality show. The A.P.C. founder took the stage to give a viva voce exposition on his new collection—reluctantly, he gruffly claimed. "I have to, because no one is in a bikini," he said. "It's not very spectacular. We need to mak... | Matthew Schneier | January 18, 2013 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | spring | Jean Touitou is celebrating A.P.C.'s 25th anniversary this year, but he's still as hands-on as ever. This morning, he personally narrated the label's modest presentation of 16 looks at its newly renovated sixth arrondissement headquarters. A huge, curving vintage leather couch was trucked in for the appointments, which... | Nicole Phelps | October 3, 2012 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | fall | Jean Touitou's past loves and lusts were the muses of A.P.C.'s new Fall collection. Who's his type? As usual, Touitou didn't spare any details as he presented the lineup at his Left Bank headquarters this morning. When he emigrated from Tunisia, he said, it was easy to fall for Frenchjeunes filleswith their printed blo... | Nicole Phelps | March 3, 2014 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2014-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,014 | menswear | fall | Unlike most fashion presentations, A.P.C.'s have the force of an art happening. This season's became officially must-see when word got out that in addition to founder Jean Touitou's usual narration of his seasonal obsessions, Kanye West would be on hand to offer an explanation about his ongoing collaboration with the F... | Matthew Schneier | January 17, 2014 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | spring | A.P.C.'s Jean Touitou doesn't lack for opinions. His Paris presentations are must-sees for the frank way in which he rails against the fashion system and current trends. People grab a coffee, plop themselves down on the couch, and settle in for some real talk, not to mention, of course, a chance to see the label's new ... | Nicole Phelps | September 30, 2013 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2014-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,014 | menswear | spring | For his Spring fashion presentation-cum-keynote-address, Jean Touitou gave a tour through recent history. "Fashion rewrites the past in a very subjective way," he declaimed, and in a series of vignettes, he explained his new men's collection, filled out by readings from Bret Easton Ellis and the French writer Guillaume... | Matthew Schneier | June 28, 2013 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | fall | Jean Touitou shared A.P.C.'s origin story at the brand's presentation in its Left Bank headquarters this morning. It involves a 1987 trip to Barcelona, lost luggage, and a futile search for good jeans and nicely proportioned sweaters to wear on his vacation. Twenty-eight years later, he's got Kanye West sitting on the ... | Nicole Phelps | March 11, 2015 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2015-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,015 | menswear | fall | Can a brand ever use the N-word to sell clothes? The answer, surely, is absolutely not. Who would ever suggest it? Well, Jean Touitou, the founder of A.P.C., did today at a Fall presentation that was full of tasteful menswear but stretched the boundaries of appropriateness.As he opened his live narration of the collect... | Luke Leitch | January 24, 2015 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | spring | Fashion shows are about so much more than clothes today. In front of a crowd of thousands or in a showroom with barely enough room for a hundred, they're instant branding campaigns in our social media age. Karl Lagerfeld had bullhorns and protest posters at Chanel this morning. It was a classic case of co-optation, but... | Nicole Phelps | September 30, 2014 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2015-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,015 | menswear | spring | "This is not the house of normcore," Jean Touitou announced to the captive audience at his A.P.C. presentation. "I'm done with minimalism. And here's the hard-core styling to prove it to you."Hard-core? Touitou is an orator, spinning words for effect. There was nothing in his selection of Spring looks to unsettle or pr... | Tim Blanks | June 28, 2014 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | fall | A.P.C., a fixture on the Paris schedule, presented today in New York. The reason to hop the pond is straightforward: Jean Touitou’s French company has partnered with an American one, Tyler Haney’s Outdoor Voices. The collaboration is Touitou’s claim to a piece of the athleisure pie. Smart move. Outdoor Voices’s underst... | Nicole Phelps | February 16, 2016 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | spring | “They call me the king of basics,”Jean Touitousaid with a laugh at theAPCpresentation today. Kingliness is one thing, but the basics bit has lately proved irksome to Touitou. He decided to do something about it this season, starting by making a capsule offering of little black dresses. It’s an item whose APC time has c... | Nicole Phelps | October 3, 2015 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | fall | I got to knowA.P.C.in the summer of 1996 when I fell for a simple white button-down in the pages ofWmagazine, where I had just landed my dream job: calling in fashion credits for the well pages! By then, A.P.C.’s Mercer Street store was open in New York City, and the company was going on 10 years old. By A.P.C. standar... | Nicole Phelps | March 6, 2017 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | fall-2017-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/a-p-c- | 2,017 | menswear | fall | Back in 1987, when Jean Touitou founded his fashion brand, did he believe he’d still be in business 30 years later? “No, because I thought the world would collapse in 2003, or something,” he replied. And now that A.P.C. has reached this point, does he feel much has changed? “I was trying to come up with the words; I th... | Amy Verner | January 20, 2017 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | spring | Jean Touitou and co. swapped their familiar showroom venue for a presentation at what he described as a strip club for the “work council” set. TheA.P.C.founder has a way with words, but he kept them brief this season. He’d invited people not only to see the new collection but also to dance; it was to be the first of a ... | Nicole Phelps | October 1, 2016 | Jean Touitou | [
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A P C | spring-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/a-p-c- | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | spring | For years Jean Touitou has held small presentations at A.P.C.’s Left-Bank headquarters. The espresso machine whirred and Touitou riffed to the crowd, which was intimate enough to squeeze onto a Pierre Paulin couch. All very much a family affair, season after season. That’s the attractive thing about A.P.C. Thirty-one y... | Nicole Phelps | October 1, 2018 | Jean Touitou | [
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Aalto | fall-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | fall | People were not supposed to sit at the Aalto show, but the whitewashed crates encircling the otherwise empty space proved to be too much temptation for attendees, who immediately filled them as if on autopilot. Not such a big deal, of course, but fascinating when brought into a larger context through the lens of Tuomas... | Alessandra Codinha | March 4, 2016 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | fall-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | fall | In some respects, this latest Aalto collection picked up where Pre-Fall, with its Paradise Lost narrative, left off. Tuomas Merikoski modified his elongated, layered suiting with patchwork stripes veering this way and that. He also revisited the integrated and removable panels of fluffy tinted fur, furthering his colla... | Amy Verner | February 28, 2017 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | pre-fall-2017 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/aalto | 2,017 | pre-fall | AssessingAaltocollections strictly by their titles, this season’s Paradise Lost doesn’t match the dark humor of Fall 2016’s Hellsinki. Removing the references—Milton, obviously, the goth metal band, less so—the name Paradise Lost conjures up something grave and despairing. Tuomas Merikoski didn’t take the clothes to su... | Amy Verner | January 13, 2017 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | spring-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | spring | Many a fashion mood board has boasted pictures of Kurt Cobain wearing a dress. Far, far fewer show him next to a Moomin, a Finnish cartoon character that looks like an amorphous manatee. ForAalto’s Spring collection, Tuomas Merikoski created an artisanal capsule inspired by Tove Jansson’s beloved comic series—particula... | Alessandra Codinha | September 27, 2016 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | resort-2017 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/aalto | 2,017 | resort | Aaltois one of two brands that made this year’s shortlists for both the LVMH Prize and the ANDAM Award (Koché is the other), and a visit to the Marais showroom fell a few days after the first and 10 days before the latter. Like any good sport, Tuomas Merikoski took the LVMH loss in stride, noting the valuable upsides o... | Amy Verner | June 21, 2016 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | fall-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | fall | For Fall, Tuomas Merikoski continued to explore his Finnish origins and the intersection between his roots and the world stage—he is, after all, the only Finnish luxury designer on the international scene.“I’m scared about what’s happening [in the world], but at the same time, I think my identity is in line with all th... | Tina Isaac-Goizé | February 28, 2018 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | spring-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | spring | For this collection, designer Tuomas Merikoski partnered with RePack, a Finnish packaging company whose industrial yellow sleeves are made from recycled material. Going forward, if you order something from Aalto’s site, RePack will deliver your purchase and, ideally, you’ll send back the package (free of charge) so tha... | Amy Verner | September 27, 2017 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | fall-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | fall | The show’s title, Finlaand (reprising the twoa’s in Aalto), and its models hold the key to Tuomas Merikoski’s thinking these days just as much as the clothes.“It’s a whole new chapter for me,” the designer explained backstage before the show. “We’re really breaking rules and breaking free of standards when it comes to ... | Tina Isaac-Goizé | February 27, 2019 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | pre-fall-2019 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/aalto | 2,019 | pre-fall | Tuomas Merikoski is always looking at the potential crossover of Finnish youth and French refinement. He likes to aim for the sweet spot where sophistication cohabitates with nonconformity. It hasn’t always worked seamlessly in the past, but for the last two seasons, the designer seems to be moving in the right directi... | Tina Isaac-Goizé | February 1, 2019 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | spring-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | spring | Tuomas Merikoski seems to have graduated from art-school quirky to a more womanly allure. It suits him. “I guess we have matured a little,” the designer said backstage, by way of explanation. “I wanted to bring something a little easier and smoother, with a touch of elegance.” His model lineup also reflected that attit... | Tina Isaac-Goizé | September 27, 2018 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | resort-2019 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/aalto | 2,019 | resort | Aalto’s Resort collection will go down as the fastest catwalk show ever. It lasted 4 minutes and 30 seconds. Creative director Tuomas Merikoski enlisted a crew of young and beautiful athletes to perform in the show; instead of walking, they actually race-walked, as if in a real competition.Merikoski tapped into the cur... | Tiziana Cardini | June 18, 2018 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | spring-2020-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/aalto | 2,020 | ready-to-wear | spring | Tuomas Merikoski decided to get a little more personal for Spring, which meant “looking at the inclusive/exclusive-ness of things,” he said. A former competitive swimmer and a beach person at heart (small wonder Aalto is a wave-themed brand), he nonetheless shifted slightly away from the overt, occasionally over-though... | Tina Isaac-Goizé | September 29, 2019 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Aalto | resort-2020 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/aalto | 2,020 | resort | Tuomas Merikoski prefers not to be wedged into a single category. Which is why for Resort, he chose to focus on “beautiful chaos,” aka eclectic uniform dressing that mixes mediums. Various knits fuse on a single cardigan, for example, or classic front-pleat trousers might get the punk treatment.“We’re living in chaotic... | Tina Isaac-Goizé | September 29, 2019 | Tuomas Merikoski | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2009-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,009 | ready-to-wear | fall | Jonny Johansson of Acne, the Swedish fashion phenomenon, isn't one of those guys who goes about his business like a big shot. "I'm from reindeer country," he likes to tell people. But he's infiltrated the international denim, T-shirt, and well-priced separates markets with such indie integrity that all kinds of cool pe... | Sarah Mower | February 8, 2009 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2010-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,010 | ready-to-wear | fall | Jonny Johansson's world has been invaded by droids. As the father of six- and three-year-old sons who are obsessed withThe Clone Warscartoons and collectible figures as only small boys can be, he shrugs, "We have to watch it and play it all the time. It's sort of embarrassing, but that's where my inspiration comes from... | Sarah Mower | February 1, 2010 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2010-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,010 | ready-to-wear | spring | There isn't a fashion watcher on earth who isn't dying to know what the news for Spring's going to be—and the action's already started in London at Acne's presentation. Even from halfway across the room and through a thicket of models standing in formation, it was easy to zero in on the newest idea: two ethereally hip,... | Sarah Mower | September 1, 2009 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2011-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,011 | ready-to-wear | fall | After the Acne show this morning, Jonny Johansson was so choked with emotion that you had to wonder if this was an Acne watershed we'd just witnessed. You know, the kind that comes before a major announcement. In fact, the showwasa sort of good-bye. Johansson felt he was closing a chapter of the brand's history, with t... | Tim Blanks | February 19, 2011 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | pre-fall-2011 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2011/acne-studios | 2,011 | pre-fall | The pre-fall phenomenon has yet to make much impression on Sweden, soAcne's contribution to fashion's newest season was unsurprisingly low-key. A mere ten looks, in fact. But, as edited as they were, they still pointed to new possibilities for the brand. Androgyny has been something of a signature for the label. Here i... | Tim Blanks | January 20, 2011 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2011-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,011 | ready-to-wear | spring | Jonny Johansson sent a mixed message with today's show of Acne Studio's womenswear. "Nothing retro, no references," he said of the clothes, after a presentation that had taken place in Apartment 1A, Princess Margaret's old digs at Kensington Palace, about as retro a location as the Establishment allows. Photographs of ... | Tim Blanks | September 18, 2010 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2011-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-menswear/acne-studios | 2,011 | menswear | spring | You want a great night out to go on forever. At least that's how Acne's Jonny Johansson felt after partying at Le Tango in Paris with Christopher Lundmann and the rest of his men's design team. It made him think of the kind of summer dances he used to go to when he was growing up in the Swedish countryside, and from th... | Tim Blanks | June 26, 2010 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | resort-2011 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2011/acne-studios | 2,011 | resort | With its Swedish roots, Acne has no weighty fashion heritage to live up to. "We can do what we want," says company founder Jonny Johansson. For Resort, that meant a collection that was, somewhat incongruously, inspired byBlack White + Gray, the recent documentary about the relationship between Sam Wagstaff and Robert M... | Tim Blanks | June 25, 2010 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | fall | The key word at tonight's Acne show wasambition. If last season's collection introduced a new sense of scale to the brand, then this one doubled down on it: Acne maestro Jonny Johansson seized on a trio of body-obsessed artists for inspiration, blenderized the references, and came up with a vision for Fall '12 that was... | Maya Singer | February 18, 2012 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2012-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-menswear/acne-studios | 2,012 | menswear | fall | Can you really fake it to make it? Jonny Johansson at Acne set out to find out. He began the Fall collection mulling the idea of fakeness and fraudulence, especially as concerns fabrics and materials, those that pretend to be something they're not. Enter leatherette. "The interesting thing is, you stumble into the fabr... | Matthew Schneier | January 21, 2012 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | pre-fall-2012 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2012/acne-studios | 2,012 | pre-fall | Youth flies by in a flash. Ever after, it's remembered by totems and touchstones. Proust had his madeleine. Kane had his sled. Jonny Johansson has his MTV."When I was growing up, MTV was very important for fashion," Johansson said at Acne's Paris showroom. "TV is not really something you talk about. But the glorious mo... | Matthew Schneier | January 20, 2012 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | spring | There was an unfamiliar feeling in the air after this evening's Acne show: excitement. Acne designer Jonny Johansson sent out a taut, terrific collection, and it snapped everyone in the audience to attention. It's hard to put your finger on exactly what made these clothes work so well; maybe it was that they expressed,... | Maya Singer | September 17, 2011 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2012-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/acne-studios | 2,012 | menswear | spring | For a guy often accused of popularizing Swedish design, Acne's Jonny Johansson doesn't rhapsodize about the notion. "Historically we don't have a fashion background, really," he said after his latest Acne show. "Architecture, yes. Design, yes. But fashion?" And yet tonight's show was his homage to his homeland. He look... | Matthew Schneier | June 25, 2011 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | resort-2012 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/acne-studios | 2,012 | resort | Acne staged a culture clash for its Resort presentation: "a downtown 'young jeans' girl," in the words of creative director Jonny Johansson, crashing into the fabrics and shapes of midcentury couture. There were what looked like acres of taffeta, organza, silk, and linen at the label's first New York presentation, and ... | Matthew Schneier | June 8, 2011 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | fall | After showing in London for several seasons, Acne decamped to Paris this time out, and with good reason. Ahead of creating the new collection, creative director Jonny Johansson embarked on a collaboration with the artist Katerina Jebb, in which they explored the archive of historical garments at the Musée Galliera, the... | Maya Singer | March 1, 2013 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2013-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/acne-studios | 2,013 | menswear | fall | Acne is knitting together its men's and its women's. Jonny Johansson, fresh off a trip to New York to introduce Acne's women's pre-fall was at the Crillon in Paris today to debut its Fall men's—both collections, it turned out, were inspired by Swedish playwright, director, book collector, narcissist, and paramour Augus... | Matthew Schneier | January 17, 2013 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | pre-fall-2013 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2013/acne-studios | 2,013 | pre-fall | Outside of Sweden, August Strindberg is best known as a playwright, and particularly as the writer of the frequently revived dramaMiss Julie.In his homeland, however, the figure of Strindberg looms large: As Jonny Johansson explained at the Acne Studios presentation today, he's revered as a novelist, a poet, a painter,... | Maya Singer | January 6, 2013 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | spring | "Meet me at the wrecking ball, wrecking ball, I'll wear something pretty and white…" So goes the chorus of the Neil Young tune "Wrecking Ball." According to Acne designer Jonny Johansson, Emmylou Harris' plaintive cover of "Wrecking Ball" inspired this season's Acne show—a show that did not, in fact, kick off with a lo... | Maya Singer | September 15, 2012 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2013-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-menswear/acne-studios | 2,013 | menswear | spring | Denim is the seed from which Acne grew, but in recent years, Jonny Johansson has steered the label—at least as far as the runway is concerned—in a different direction. "We never wanted to be just a denim brand," Johansson said. "We were afraid to show too much denim, to be put in a box." That the opening look for Sprin... | Matthew Schneier | June 29, 2012 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | resort-2013 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2013/acne-studios | 2,013 | resort | Yesterday, what felt like every fashion editor on earth was shuttled from appointment to appointment—mercifully, many in Milk Studios, site of Acne's mini-presentation—with what felt like every fashion brand on earth. It's been grumbled before, but more than ever it felt that Resort, formerly a commercial collection pa... | Matthew Schneier | June 10, 2012 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | fall | There was a moment, not so long ago, when the clothes on Acne Studios' runways and the clothes in Acne's stores looked as though they'd gone their separate ways. The catwalk didn't reflect the Swedish label's streetwear roots. Founder Jonny Johansson set out to correct that last season to a lot of positive feedback. Bu... | Nicole Phelps | February 28, 2014 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2014-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-menswear/acne-studios | 2,014 | menswear | fall | Jonny Johansson's inspiration du jour was "winter beach." The rocky beaches of the Scandinavian peninsula are more existential than the usual Beach Blanket Bingo variety, and Johansson has lately had opportunity to spend some spiritual time by the water. "One year ago I bought a house in Torö. It was Ingmar Bergman's s... | Matthew Schneier | January 17, 2014 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | pre-fall-2014 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/acne-studios | 2,014 | pre-fall | Pre-Fall gets knocked as the most purely commercial season. But commercial needn't mean boring, as Acne Studio's Jonny Johansson understands. Indeed, Johansson is one of those designers who seems to thrive under constraint: This collection benefited from its refusal to be statement making, with pleasures derived from t... | Maya Singer | January 6, 2014 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | spring | When a brand starts showing on the catwalk, it's entirely proper for the scale of its ambitions to expand. In the past few seasons, though, it's been hard to escape the feeling that Acne Studios was perhaps getting ahead of itself. The collections kept metastasizing, in a completely literal sense, as though expanding t... | Maya Singer | September 27, 2013 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2014-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-menswear/acne-studios | 2,014 | menswear | spring | The Swedish outsider artist Hilma af Klint is having a mini moment, thanks to a Stockholm retrospective of the wall-size abstract drawings she made at the beginning of the twentieth century. One of her new adherents is Acne's Jonny Johansson. He was so taken with the mystical af Klint, who aimed to represent the philos... | Matthew Schneier | June 27, 2013 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | resort-2014 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/acne-studios | 2,014 | resort | Only at Acne does a collection premised on a "functional gardening look" include a gold-foil-stamped linen suit. Or a pair of swingy shorts covered in iridescent sequins. Disco horticulture!But the antic energy Jonny Johansson brings to Acne's women's collections—one he conserves for the workroom, to judge from his pla... | Matthew Schneier | June 9, 2013 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | fall | Acne held its show at the Pompidou Centre. The crowd on the outside of the windows was as many rows deep as the bleachers set up inside the famous museum. What could they have made of this collection with its sturdy tweed coats, their extreme volumes wrestled under control by thick rope lacing, and its sheer, breast-ba... | Nicole Phelps | March 7, 2015 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2015-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/acne-studios | 2,015 | menswear | fall | Wow: banal with a twist—there's a collection summation that most designers would entirely lack the cojones to coin. But that was the essence of Jonny Johansson's languid précis of his references for the season. "It's about football [soccer], Harris Tweed, jogging—things men like," he said. "And being a bit banal about ... | Luke Leitch | January 24, 2015 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | pre-fall-2015 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/acne-studios | 2,015 | pre-fall | The general election in Sweden last September got Acne Studios' Jonny Johansson thinking about the Feminist Initiative, the country's left-wing political party. Though it didn't garner enough votes to earn a seat in parliament, the Initiative became something of a national cause célèbre for furthering gender equality t... | Amy Verner | January 13, 2015 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | spring | Waiters were serving naughty canapés as people filed into the Acne Studios show this afternoon. The treats went along with the collection's suggestive prints, which collaged naked nether parts with pieces of fruit and vegetables, flowers, and tubes of lipstick. Made in collaboration with the artist Raquel Dias, they lo... | Nicole Phelps | September 27, 2014 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2015-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/acne-studios | 2,015 | menswear | spring | Awkward, askew, askance.Those might have been the three A's knitted into baggy collegiate sweaters at Acne Studios, the increasingly refined Swedish label with the quotidian name. To be fair, the name isn't so much a name as it is an acronym for Ambition to Create Novel Expressions, which sounds much better, plus it's ... | Lee Carter | June 27, 2014 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | resort-2015 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/acne-studios | 2,015 | resort | Here's a good illustration of the present-day timeline of a trend: A year and a half ago, Acne Studios caused a minor frenzy among editors for the covetable, accessible take on major volume in its August Strindberg-themed Pre-Fall 2013 collection. The clothes that Acne showed this morning, meanwhile, served as the deat... | Maya Singer | June 9, 2014 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | fall | An ’80s vibe has been reverberating on the runways in Europe this season, and the punk soundtrack atAcne Studiosthis afternoon was plugged into that vibe. Creative director Jonny Johansson has been a fan of Californian punk outfit the Cramps since his teenage years, and backstage after the show he admitted to fanning o... | Chioma Nnadi | March 5, 2016 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | fall-2016-menswear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/acne-studios | 2,016 | menswear | fall | Militaria hackneyed? Not atAcne. After spotting pieces of Swedish army surplus on the streets, Jonny Johansson looked back to the nine months he spent in military service as a youth. “Mostly I was freezing my arse off,” he said, “sleeping under snow in the forest.” While serving his country, Johansson was issued a unif... | Luke Leitch | January 23, 2016 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | pre-fall-2016 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/acne-studios | 2,016 | pre-fall | Jonny Johansson has not achieved such consistent success withAcne Studiosby turning out ordinary clothes season after season. Motivated by cultural constructs, social anthropology, and the way people present themselves in the world, he often mentions researching an idea in depth before arriving at the first designs. Fr... | Amy Verner | January 11, 2016 | Jonny Johansson | [
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Acne Studios | spring-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/acne-studios | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | spring | A bohemian circle of muses have been in heavy rotation for the last couple of seasons—Joni Mitchell, Janis Joplin, and the like—but now it seems that things in fashion might be moving to a new musical beat.Acne Studios’ creative directorJonny Johanssonis certainly keen on pressing the fast-forward button, and his lates... | Chioma Nnadi | October 3, 2015 | Jonny Johansson | [
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